A Date with Bam

Bam's date palm orchards seen from the citadel

Most of our Iranian friends thought we were crazy when we said we were driving all the way to Bam – an ancient city in southeastern Tehran in Kerman Province.

“There’s nothing to see,” they all said. “The city is in ruins.”

To a degree, they were correct.  Eleven years previously, on 26 December 2003, Bam had been devastated by an earthquake, measuring 6.6 on the Richter scale.  The epicenter was right below the centre of Bam itself.  There was no escape.

Earthquake damage to the Bam Citadel

The old city was flattened, its historic citadel was extensively damaged and almost 30,000 people – mainly living in the rest of the city – lost their lives.  What was once a thriving tourist destination became – in an instant – a disaster zone.

“But that was 11 years ago,” we told our friends, “It must have changed by now.”

And it has.

The long road from Tehran is smooth and – with a single minimal exception between Kerman and Bam – great to drive on.  The scenery is mostly desert with some towns on the way.  But, when we approached Bam, we found ourselves in a lush green oasis of date and orange orchards.

The wrecked town we had heard about no longer really exists.  There were traces of the devastation – especially in the citadel.  But what greeted our eyes was a new town, filled with earthquake-proof modern homes, new hospitals, schools and a German-built sports stadium equal to any in a modern, medium sized Europe city.  New life was everywhere.

The Arq-e Bam, reconstruction under supervision of UNESCO

But, what we had really come to see was the 2,000-year-old citadel – The Arq-e Bam.  It had been badly damaged by the earthquake but, now under the supervision of UNESCO – and with support from the government and donors like Japan, Germany, France and Italy – it is being rebuilt, piece by piece, to reflect its former glory.

Bam Dates

Despite the obvious damage, it is breathtaking.  And, watching the craftsman slowly mix their adobe and rebuild walls was fascinating.  I am happy we didn’t listen to our friends’ advice.

Bam is definitely a must-see.

But, what is perhaps, most eye catching are the welcoming date orchards that just suddenly appear out of the desert.  Bam is famous for its luscious, sweet dates.  Dates are an energy food in Iran and are usually served at breakfast with white cheese, honey and Iranian bread.  There is no recipe for this blog.  If you are lucky enough to get a box of Bam dates, I suggest you just eat the lot.

And the highlight of the trip?  Meeting the local Bamis (as they like to call themselves) and listen to their stories of calm optimism for the future, tinged with sadness at the losses from the past.

Mr. Akbar Panjalizadeh of the Akbar Guest House, Bam

Mr. Akbar Panjalizadeh, former teacher and proprietor of the Akbar Guest House, invited us to take tea in the garden of his guesthouse.  Before 2003, it was never empty, with tourists from all over the world.  We were handed the old torn visitor books – salvaged from the rubble.  We were able to gaze upon the past and read travelers’ tales mixed with the usual delight and frustrations. 

But today, the guesthouse – somewhat resembling a construction site – is still being repaired and attracts only the rare adventurous backpacker.

“Bam is still here!  We are still here” Mr. Panjalizadeh said in the hope that we would tell others to come. “We get energy from you people who visit us.”

How true!  And how reassuring.

Bam6.6 is a film about a young American Jewish girl and her fiance, who were trapped in the earthquake. Click on the link to the Bam6.6 website to find out more about this remarkable story of survival and the wonderful people of Iran.