Semnan Camping Adventure

“It only takes three Iranians in one place to start a party,” declared one of our friends.

So picture about 35 nature-loving Iranians and three foreigners on the top of a mountain in Semnan’s Parvar Protected Area and you can just imagine the fun and adventures that took place.

Full Moon over mountains in Semnan

Invited by our friends Kavous and Maryam to experience the outdoors with them, we jumped at the chance. We borrowed one of their tents, packed our car with camping gear and set off in a four-by-four convoy through the desert to take in the delights of Semnan.

Semnan Province lies about 240 km to the east of Tehran, with the Alborz Mountains to the north and the Dasht-e Kavir (Kavir desert) to the south.  As we drove from Tehran, the geological wonderland of this region began to entrance us with its harsh yet captivating beauty. The yellow, red, grey and green shades of the rocks, desert and mountains were a feast for the eyes.  Lush green valleys with olive trees, fruit orchards and fields dotted with ubiquitous beehives were just the start of our eco-tourism adventure.

But the best was yet to come.  We headed into the Parvar Protected Area and started to wind our way up the red-earth dirt tracks of the mountain side.  After several hairpin bends, some sheep traffic jams and a stop at a mountain spring to collect water we finally found our camp.

Traffic jam in the mountains

Secluded near the crest of a mountain peak, we found the green open space where we would pitch our camp and meet new friends.  Having pitched our tent, we were ready for the next exciting experience, which started with finding where our toilet would be.  We had our pick of bushes and trees and went for a wander to find somewhere suitable and secluded to do the needful.

Now, that is what I call getting close to nature!

But, back to Parvar, which serves as a natural monument to the beauty of Iran. It is home to a variety of protected wildlife such as wild bear, leopard, mountain goats, the Persian ibex and wild pigs, some of whom came down to our campsite at night and rooted around for goodies to eat.

During our stay, we went on a hike through the rich Alborz forests leading us to the mountain top and the crest of a ridge which looks down into Mazandaran Province. 

Looking north, we saw the lush green forests of the Caspian region.  On a clear day, we were told, you can see the Caspian Sea.  Turning around and looking south, we could take in the striking beauty of the lands which eventually lead to the Kavir desert. 

But it was the later afternoons in the camp that were the most spectacular.  As we sat drinking coffee by our tents, the mist from the Caspian would start to roll southwards over the mountains down towards us and our camp.  At first it would tease the campers with a few whisps of cloud.  But soon afterwards the thick carpet of cloud would cover both the mountain ridge and our camp.  This was always the sign – even on the hottest days in July – to go find your jacket and get the campfire roaring.

Mist rolling in from the Caspian

The communal fire and cooking was all overseen by Maryam.  And a finer cook you are unlikely to meet in Iran.  Even on the side of a mountain and feeding close to 40 people, Maryam – a native Kashkai – can conjure up delicious meals to suit everyone’s tastes.

With the help of experienced fire masters who kept the campfire burning, Maryam managed the cooking and cleaning duties amongst the campers and everyone pitched in to produce fabulous food.  From chicken curry, vegetable byriani, mirza ghasemi and pasta sauces for meat-eaters and vegetarians, no one was left hungry.  The chatter and singing around the campfire added to the magic of eating outdoors.

But Maryam’s signature dish is her barbecue chicken in a special Iranian apple sauce.  It is entirely her own invention and utterly delicious.  You will find the recipe at the end of the blog and of course all rights are reserved to Maryam on this one.

So, while Maryam was busy organizing the evening’s cooking troops to prepare this wonderful chicken, we joined the Iranian party at the top of the hill.  It started with five of us but as the sounds of laughter and jokes spread, we were joined by more happy campers and the party grew.

As we shared special moments together, we looked around and took in the full moon shining down on the serrated mountains to our east.  Although the sky above us was clear, the cloud level had settled in the several valleys below us, like thick pools of cotton wool wedged in the grooves of the lush green valleys.

A perfect place for a party, especially an Iranian one.

Maryam’s BBQ Apple Sauce

Crab Apple Sauce

The base of the recipe is crab apple sauce.

To make crab apple sauce, use a quantity of crab apples of your choice.  Cut them into pieces keeping on the skin and any pips etc and bring to the boil.  Simmer gradually until the mixture is syrupy and thick.  Pass the mix through a large sized sieve or colander, to remove the skin and pips.

Take this mixture and put it in a clean pot and allow to simmer for a while (Maryam says about a couple of hours) until you have a thick paste. Bottle in sterilized jars and store in a cool dark place.  The sauce can be kept for up to two years of stored correctly.

Maryam (standing) and her kitchen cohorts

BBQ Sauce for 50 large pieces of chicken

1 cup of crab apple sauce

½ cup of pomegranate paste

1 cup of honey

1 cup of melted butter

Dred red chili peppers

First, you must marinade the chicken with olive oil, soya sauce, vinegar and salt and pepper.  You can leave the chicken in this marinade in the fridge for up to 2 days.

When you are ready to BBQ the chicken, dip it in the sauce and place it on the fire to cook.  Baste as necessary.

Pickling a Peach from Tajrish

Nothing beats mooching around a bazaar, and if you live in the northern part of Tehran, Tajrish is the place to go.

Located at the very end of Valiasr Street, Tajrish is a hive of activity. With a metro station, a bus terminal, a taxi terminal and streets heading off downtown or to the foothills of the Alborz Mountains, there is always something going on and plenty of people going about their business.

Busy Tajrish bazaar

And right in the middle – is the bazaar.

Sadly ignored by most modern guidebooks, the Tajrish bazaar is a fascinating market with an interesting history. With today’s urban spread, high-rise buildings and apartment blocks, it may be difficult to believe that even in the 1970s, Tajrish was a cool, green mountain foothill holiday destination. Well, at least for those who could afford to escape the searing heat of Tehran’s hot summers.  The bazaar originated to supply holidaymakers, and is now the centre of one of Tehran’s more affluent and heavily-populated suburbs.

Although not as large and frenetic as Tehran’s Grand Bazaar, it is a place where you can find almost anything from painted baby chicks to FC Barcelona Messi football shirts. And, of course, the food there is fresher than you are likely to find any flashy supermarket.

The bazaar – any bazaar – is historically an integral part of Iran’s social and economic life. Over the centuries, as people have migrated to live in towns and cities, the bazaar served as an important connection between the town and the countryside whose agriculture fed the growing urban population. And, despite the increasing number of large supermarket chains in Tehran, bazaars continue to be influential today.

Each bazaar became a home to merchants and craftsmen, who formed their own powerful and influential trade guilds. Traditionally, the bazaaris (the shop owners) have close ties to the clergy, and next to each bazaar you are almost always guaranteed to find a Friday mosque. In Tajrish, pilgrims and shoppers alike find their way through the winding alleys to the striking Emamzadeh Saleh Mausoleum.

The power of the bazaar trade guilds was not something to be underestimated and bazaaris were renowned in the past for strikes and total shutdowns whenever they felt threatened by state or foreign monopolies. In 1951, with the events leading up to the nationalization of oil, Tehran’s Grand Bazaar, for example, staged a complete closure.

Spice shop in Tajrish bazaar

Every bazaar is divided into trade sections.  Alleyways selling saffron and sugar will be crisscrossed with other alleys selling housewares, electrical goods and others selling shoes. And, of course, my favourite alleys are the spice shops and the fresh foods.

Although I would advise checking the words for what you want to buy in a Farsi dictionary before you set out, browse in any fragrant spice store and you will find many a zesty flavouring. Organic soaps, remedies for all ills and herbs from Iran and abroad can be found in the smallest of shops in Tajrish.

The fruit and vegetable section is just pure fun to saunter around. Even with my very poor Persian, it has still been possible for me to beat the merchant down a Riyal or two (I think) from the starting price. And this is how I managed to buy some fresh local peaches to make one of Iran’s traditional accompaniments, pickled peaches.

Iranians do love their pickles and although there are many torsh-e khane, or pickle stores, in each bazaar, it is easy and rewarding to make your own.  Pickled peaches are a unique way to tart up any meat dish, and with all those summer bar-b-q’s now being planned, are a must have on any picnic table.

So, pop down to your local bazaar for some peaches and enjoy the summer fun!

Torsh-e Holu – Pickled Peaches

What you need:

375 ml white wine, cider or apple vinegar

500 g fresh peaches (the firmer the better)

Home made pickled peaches

1 tablespoon of fresh ginger (grated finely)

3 teaspoons ground coriander

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 ½ teaspoons tamarind paste

110 grams sugar

¼ teaspoon hot chili peppers (ground or the flakes)

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

What to do:

Pour 250 ml of the vinegar into a large, heavy based pan.

Peel and slice the peaches and place in the pan with the vinegar. Add the ginger, garlic and ground coriander.

Put the tamarind paste into the remaining vinegar and stir until dissolved, then pour in the pan.  Add all the other ingredients and stir gently.

Over a moderate heat, bring the mix to the boil, stirring occasionally to make sure the sugar has dissolved. Boil gently for about 5 minutes without the lid on.

Pour carefully into a warmed and sterilized jar (to sterilize the jar, warm it in the oven at 110°C for 20 minutes then use).

Store in a cool dark place for at least one week before using.