Chelo Kebab at the Shater Abbas

It goes without saying that my first food blog from Iran would have to be about chelo kebab, the definitive national dish of Iran. Chelo kebab consists of white rice (chelo) steamed and served pyramid-style, topped with saffron coloured rice and butter, along with a variety of meat kebabs from chicken, to lamb to beef. Traditionally the rice was served with a raw egg broken on top, but these days due to culinary health risks, this is a custom more honoured in the breach than the observance, to quote our dear Mr. Shakespeare.

Not originally indigenous to Iran, it is believed that the Qajar Shah, Nasser-al Din, discovered these delicious kebabs on a trip to Russia and the Caucuses sometime in the late 19th century. So enamoured was he that he introduced this un-complicated but tasty treat to Iranian cuisine, and here it has remained ever since. Rumour has it that royal cooks would rush their blood to water to dish up chelo kebab to the ladies of the Shah’s harem!

Gary at the Shater Abbas

The Qajar dynasty capital was located in Tabriz, in East Azerbaijan Province, and so chelo kebab was originally considered to be a dish from the north, but of course, anywhere you go in Iran today, you can be rest assured there will be an eatery with the right chelo kebab just for you.

A bit of an amateur cook myself, I do like to try my hand at Iranian food, but have decided to draw the line at the national delicacy, which, I firmly believe, is not something to be cooked at home but just has to be eaten in a restaurant with a traditional Iranian ambience and all the fuss and flurry of skewer-wielding waiters.

This week, Gary and I went to one of our locals in Tehran, the Shater Abbas restaurant on the corner of Vali Asr Street and the Parkway Crossroads. Iranian hospitality is legendary, and we are always greeted with a wide smile from the doorman and then wend our way up the stairs to the eternally bustling family restaurant. This time we managed to secure the romantic little table for two right in the corner with an uncluttered view of the hustle and bustle of Vali Asr Street, reputedly the longest avenue in the Middle East.

Chelo Kebab Barg and Koubideh

Before the menu is placed before us, we are given a complimentary plate of fresh greens and herbs with goat’s cheese and bread, known as sabzi khordan. While we chomp away eagerly, we can then study the menu at a leisurely pace. And, now that we have a little Farsi under our belts, we are able to hold the menu the right way up and it doesn’t take too long to decide what we want – chelo kebab barg and koubideh. Succulent filet of lamb grilled to perfection and my all time favourite, the koubideh minced lamb, just sliding off the skewer and on to my plate. Drizzled with some lemon, a touch of grilled tomato and topped with sumac to reduce any cholesterol that will come our way, we tuck in.

We have been in Iran for a year now, so when the bill comes there is no longer the customary confusion of “How much”? You see, Iranians calculate their prices not only in the official state Rials but also in the older form of Tomans. For the arithmetically challenged person like me, it basically means figuring out an awful lot of zeros. My current modus operandi is to translate the Farsi numerals into numbers then work, Sesame Street style, with the colours of the notes. Nothing to it really, after a bit of practice. Although Gary still considers this to be primitive behaviour on my part, at least the bill does get paid. And if all else fails, hand over your wallet to the amused waiter. He will take out what he needs and give you back your exact change with a smile!