Caspian Trout and Pickled Garlic

Wondering what to do with all that leftover mirza ghasemi you made after the last blog? Well, fret no more! For I have found the answer.  Fish!

Ghezel ala or Caspian Trout

Last weekend we drove north towards the Caspian Sea to the old port town of Babolsar. The balmy sea breeze enveloping us with the sea haar made us rather ravenous. I did ask someone about good restaurants in Babolsar and was informed that the best Italian restaurant in Iran was to be found there. I do love Italian food, but I suggested to my informant that I could hardly go all the way up north to the Caspian and blog about Spaghetti Bolognese.

But help was soon to hand.  Our evening meal was ghezel ala, or Caspian Trout. Our ghezel ala had a smoky taste to it and was grilled with no sauces or marinades at all.  But, it was served with lemon quarters, pickled cabbage, salad and a large helping of warm mirza ghasemi.

It was, interestingly enough for Iran, served without any rice. Not even a grain! Some members of our little troupe were vocally disappointed about the absence of any rice, but nevertheless did manage to tuck into at least three basketfuls of machine made lavash bread.

More interestingly, however, was the plate of olives (zeytun) and pickled garlic (seer-y-torsh), which accompanied our trout. It is not the first time I have tried the north Iranian pickled garlic, and I certainly enjoyed it this trip. It was the perfect accompaniment for the fish and each clove I popped into my mouth was soft, juicy and just perfectly pickled.

I can visualize many a raised eyebrow at the concept of pickled garlic, but let me assure you it is fabulous.  And, despite what one might think about garlic breath, this is not the case. You can eat as much as you like and still sit next to your friends. In fact, one reliable source whispered into my ear that by the Caspian Sea you could eat as much pickled garlic as you like and no one will be the wiser. However, start heading over the mountains back to Tehran, and it is advisable to exercise caution with the amount of pickled garlic you consume.  It appears that the Caspian Sea air helps minimize malodorous garlicky fragrances.

Babolsar shopkeeper with pickled garlic

On our return to Tehran, we stopped at one of the many roadside shops and I stocked up on a substantial tub of local seer-y-torsh. The shopkeeper was most obliging with information and gave me a quick lesson on how to pickle garlic with malt vinegar and salt.

Standing behind four large vats of the stuff, she pointed out each variety. The first vat, brimming with fragrant seer-y-torsh, was from the ancient city of Hamadan (called Ecbatana on ancient maps). However, the vat behind that one had the shop owner’s particular brand, which, I was told, had been soaking for seven years and was far superior to anything else in the shop. Obviously, I obtained the very best that money could buy.

While ladling out my garlic, the shopkeeper leaned over her vats, and beckoned me with a conspiratorial wink. “It’s like everything else that has matured for while,” she said with a cheeky smile. “The older they are, the sweeter they become!”

Seer-y-torsh (Pickled Garlic)

Ingredients:

10 bulbs of garlic (do not peel them)

4 to 5 cups of malt vinegar

5 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons of sugar

3 to 4 tablespoons of salt

What to do:

Wash the garlic but leave skins on. Leave it to dry for a couple of hours.

Pour 4 cups of malt vinegar into a pot. Put in the garlic and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and let it cook for about half an hour.

Turn off the heat, add the sugar and leave the garlic to cool in the vinegar mix.

Place the garlic in sterilized glass jars. Cover with the vinegar from the pot. Add the balsamic vinegar and salt. If the garlic is not covered in vinegar, top up with malt vinegar.

Seal the jars firmly.  Store in a cool, dark place for at least two months before using. The longer you keep them in the jar, the tastier they will be.