Pickling a Peach from Tajrish

Nothing beats mooching around a bazaar, and if you live in the northern part of Tehran, Tajrish is the place to go.

Located at the very end of Valiasr Street, Tajrish is a hive of activity. With a metro station, a bus terminal, a taxi terminal and streets heading off downtown or to the foothills of the Alborz Mountains, there is always something going on and plenty of people going about their business.

Busy Tajrish bazaar

And right in the middle – is the bazaar.

Sadly ignored by most modern guidebooks, the Tajrish bazaar is a fascinating market with an interesting history. With today’s urban spread, high-rise buildings and apartment blocks, it may be difficult to believe that even in the 1970s, Tajrish was a cool, green mountain foothill holiday destination. Well, at least for those who could afford to escape the searing heat of Tehran’s hot summers.  The bazaar originated to supply holidaymakers, and is now the centre of one of Tehran’s more affluent and heavily-populated suburbs.

Although not as large and frenetic as Tehran’s Grand Bazaar, it is a place where you can find almost anything from painted baby chicks to FC Barcelona Messi football shirts. And, of course, the food there is fresher than you are likely to find any flashy supermarket.

The bazaar – any bazaar – is historically an integral part of Iran’s social and economic life. Over the centuries, as people have migrated to live in towns and cities, the bazaar served as an important connection between the town and the countryside whose agriculture fed the growing urban population. And, despite the increasing number of large supermarket chains in Tehran, bazaars continue to be influential today.

Each bazaar became a home to merchants and craftsmen, who formed their own powerful and influential trade guilds. Traditionally, the bazaaris (the shop owners) have close ties to the clergy, and next to each bazaar you are almost always guaranteed to find a Friday mosque. In Tajrish, pilgrims and shoppers alike find their way through the winding alleys to the striking Emamzadeh Saleh Mausoleum.

The power of the bazaar trade guilds was not something to be underestimated and bazaaris were renowned in the past for strikes and total shutdowns whenever they felt threatened by state or foreign monopolies. In 1951, with the events leading up to the nationalization of oil, Tehran’s Grand Bazaar, for example, staged a complete closure.

Spice shop in Tajrish bazaar

Every bazaar is divided into trade sections.  Alleyways selling saffron and sugar will be crisscrossed with other alleys selling housewares, electrical goods and others selling shoes. And, of course, my favourite alleys are the spice shops and the fresh foods.

Although I would advise checking the words for what you want to buy in a Farsi dictionary before you set out, browse in any fragrant spice store and you will find many a zesty flavouring. Organic soaps, remedies for all ills and herbs from Iran and abroad can be found in the smallest of shops in Tajrish.

The fruit and vegetable section is just pure fun to saunter around. Even with my very poor Persian, it has still been possible for me to beat the merchant down a Riyal or two (I think) from the starting price. And this is how I managed to buy some fresh local peaches to make one of Iran’s traditional accompaniments, pickled peaches.

Iranians do love their pickles and although there are many torsh-e khane, or pickle stores, in each bazaar, it is easy and rewarding to make your own.  Pickled peaches are a unique way to tart up any meat dish, and with all those summer bar-b-q’s now being planned, are a must have on any picnic table.

So, pop down to your local bazaar for some peaches and enjoy the summer fun!

Torsh-e Holu – Pickled Peaches

What you need:

375 ml white wine, cider or apple vinegar

500 g fresh peaches (the firmer the better)

Home made pickled peaches

1 tablespoon of fresh ginger (grated finely)

3 teaspoons ground coriander

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 ½ teaspoons tamarind paste

110 grams sugar

¼ teaspoon hot chili peppers (ground or the flakes)

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

What to do:

Pour 250 ml of the vinegar into a large, heavy based pan.

Peel and slice the peaches and place in the pan with the vinegar. Add the ginger, garlic and ground coriander.

Put the tamarind paste into the remaining vinegar and stir until dissolved, then pour in the pan.  Add all the other ingredients and stir gently.

Over a moderate heat, bring the mix to the boil, stirring occasionally to make sure the sugar has dissolved. Boil gently for about 5 minutes without the lid on.

Pour carefully into a warmed and sterilized jar (to sterilize the jar, warm it in the oven at 110°C for 20 minutes then use).

Store in a cool dark place for at least one week before using.