Jamshidieh Park and the Secrets of Golpar

Near the summit of Kolak Chal

Some may consider it somewhat insane to get up early on a Saturday morning and hike up a mountain in 30°C heat. Normally, I might agree but after climbing the hills in Jamshidieh Park – in the north of Tehran – with Gary, Sarah and our friend Sepideh, it was well worth the effort.

Our dear friends, Sepideh and Mansoor, live in a beautiful apartment in the Niavaran area of Tehran, right at the edge of the Jamshidieh Park.  The park, also known as the Stone Garden, is nestled at the base of Kolak Chal Mountain in the Alborz range.

Sculpted out of the hard rock, Jamshidieh has an interesting history.  Built during the Pahlavi era as a private royal garden, it was opened to the public in 1977.  The park is designed to make the most of its natural environment and stones from the mountains are used for the paving and modern sculptures.  A number of traditional tea-rooms and restaurants (currently closed due to Ramadan) are dotted aesthetically around the park.

But there are also mythical roots to this stony wonderland, which can be found in the pages of Ferdowsi’s spectacular epic history of Iranian kings, The Shahnameh.

Rostam, perhaps the key player in Ferdowsi’s epic poem, is famous for many brave and savage adventures - including unknowingly and tragically killing his own son.  But the main feats of his courage include his performance of the renowned Seven Trials.

View of Tehran from Kolak Chal

In Trial Number Seven, Rostam slays the murderous White Demon or Div-e Sepid in a veritable blood bath of guts and gore.  Years later, the White Demon’s son, Shabrang, which means Dark as Night, allegedly encounters Rostam for a showdown and revenge punch-up.  And where else to do this but on the very same Kolak Chal Mountain we were trudging up last Saturday morning?

It was not difficult to visualize an epic battle between these Titans as we walked through the deep green forest and started to make our way up the side of the craggy mountain.  Dressed in manto and hijab (except for Gary of course!), the heart-thumping, air-gulping, knee-wrenching climb to the top was rewarded by a breath-taking view of Tehran.

As we looked south on this windless, hot day with a little less pollution than normal, we could see as far as Rey – the oldest city in Tehran Province.  With the distant hum of the metropolis wafting up towards us on the thermals, we enjoyed the peace and quiet of the hilltop, interrupted only by the occasional chirping sparrow and a few determined bees.

The walk back down was less pressure on the heart and lungs and we were able to stop and enjoy the other delights of the park.  Sepideh took us to the outdoor gym with a view that is unsurpassable.  After a trial 10-minute workout, we headed down the mountainside to sit under the cool canopy of trees covering the carp and goldfish pond. 

At the carp pond with Sarah, Sepideh and Gary

Meandering down to the bottom of the park, accompanied by a number of gaggling geese, we finally made our way back to Sepideh’s apartment, where Mani was waiting with lunch – the price he had to pay for not joining the hike!

Sepideh and Mani are the most hospitable and generous hosts and lunch with them is always a treat.  We all enjoyed a local dish of rice mixed with lamb cooked in herbs with Mani’s home-made Mast-e-khiar, yoghurt and cucumber, and those wonderful Iranian fava (broad) beans.

When we are in conversation with Mani, we always learn a new perspective about something.  This time it was how to eat fava beans and continue sitting next to your friends.  As we all know, beans do tend to make one – shall we say – a little windy.  But now, thanks to Mani, we have the secret to successful and happy-for-everyone fava bean eating.

Fava beans and golpar

And that secret is golpar.

Golpar’s scientific Latin name is heracleum persicum and is known to the rest of us mere mortals as “hogweed”.  Golpar is a flowering plant indigenous to Iran and grows wild in its mountains.  The seeds are used as a spice in Persian cooking and have a slightly bitter taste.  Normally sold in powdered form, golpar is sprinkled on beans, vegetables and potatoes and sometimes in stews and soups.

When eating beans, mix the golpar with some vinegar (apple vinegar adds a nice tanginess) and dip your fava beans in the mix.  The effect of this culinary wizardry is to reduce the consequences of gas in the digestive tract that is normally associated with eating lots of beans.

It’s a win win situation. You eat the beans, and you keep your friends close!

Mast-e-khiar (Yoghurt and Cucumber)

Chef Mani mixing yoghurt and cucumber

What you need:

225 ml plain yoghurt

1 small/medium cucumber peeled and grated

2 teaspoons sultanas (optional)

60g chopped nuts

2 cloves garlic crushed

½ teaspoon each finely chopped mint and tarragon

What to do:

Mix all the ingredients and chill.  Serve as an appetizer with Persian bread or serve with rice and stew.